Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
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